Phewa Lake helped to put Pokhara on the tourist map, but it is now crowded by an ever-growing number of hotels, restaurants, bars and shops. Just 15km to the east, however, are two equally beautiful, under-visited lakes, with little of the overdevelopment that threatens to overwhelm Pokhara. According to local legend, Begnas Tal and Rupa Tal are husband and wife, and if you throw something into one of them, it will eventually appear in the other. The former, the larger of the two, is framed by impossibly steep, terraced hills, while the latter is hidden away in a lush valley just to the south. Both lakes have the majestic snow-capped, tent-shaped peak of Annapurna II in the background, and white egrets and ospreys fly overhead occasionally swooping down to snatch up a fish. The lakes are perfect for messing about in a boat (various vessels are available to rent), and you can also cool off with a swim in Begnas Tal. There are several guesthouses in the vicinity if you want to stay the night, and the surrounding area is great for hiking and cycling — as long as you don’t mind some steep hills.
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